TAIPEI, Taiwan (JTA) -- As Typhoon Sepat
bore down on Taiwan with flashing
thunderstorms, eight rain-soaked men
gathered in a little storefront shul in
downtown Taipei to welcome the Sabbath.
Despite the wind howling outside, and
the fact that he didn’t quite have a
minyan, 89-year-old
Rabbi Ephraim Einhorn held
services on this August Friday just as
he has nearly every Friday and Saturday
since 1975.
When
the hourlong Shabbat eve service was
over, Einhorn recited kiddush, invited
his fellow worshipers to enjoy freshly
baked challah dipped in honey and asked
who they were and from where they came.
It's
a ritual Don Shapiro has witnessed more
times than he can remember.
“Usually he wants your name, where you
were born and what your occupation is,”
says Shapiro, a native of Rochester,
N.Y., who has lived and worked in Taiwan
for 38 years. “Everybody has to give a
small bio, and if you forget something,
he’ll remind you.”
Such
intimacy is possible only because there
are so few Jews remaining in Taiwan,
officially known here as the Republic of
China.
In
recent years, as Jews increasingly flock
to Communist China to take advantage of
booming business opportunities there --
Chabad-Lubavitch alone now runs seven
synagogues in Hong Kong, Shanghai,
Beijing, Guangzhou and Shenzhen -- the
Jewish presence in democratic, staunchly
pro-Western Taiwan is disappearing.
Today, no more than 150 Jews live among
the 23 million inhabitants of Taiwan.
That compares to between 5,000 and
10,000 Jews in mainland China, not
including another 5,000 in Hong Kong,
the former British colony that reverted
to Chinese control in 1997.
Most
of the Jews in Taiwan and China are
foreigners -- mainly U.S., Israeli,
British and French citizens working as
factory managers, financial advisers,
English teachers and tour guides.
“When
I first came here, we had 80 to 100
people coming every Shabbat," says
Einhorn, who was born in Vienna and once
headed the information department at the
World Jewish Congress. "Most of them
were of Syrian descent, so we used the
Farhi [Sephardi] siddurim. Now we use
Ashkenazi prayer books. I never know how
many people will show up from one week
to the next."
Before Einhorn, the only Jewish services
in Taiwan were at the U.S. military
chapel. Then the U.S. military left, and
until a few years ago services were held
at the five-star Hotel Landis.
These
days, Einhorn uses a tiny street-level
office in the hotel's annex as a
synagogue. Smaller than an average
American living room, it's crammed with
a holy ark, bookshelves, a dozen black
chairs and a dining-room table piled
high with siddurim and newspaper
clippings.
On
Rosh Hashanah and Passover eve, services
and communal dinners are held at the
American Club, not far from Taipei's
famed Grand Hotel. About 50 to 60 people
usually show up.
The
rest of the time, Einhorn is strictly a
one-man show and the undisputed
authority on Jews in Taiwan.
“I am
the rabbi, the shamash and the
treasurer. And I pay all the bills,”
Einhorn says. “Somebody's got to do it.”
The
businessman-turned-rabbi routinely
passes out eight different business
cards: He’s the chairman of Pickwick Co.
Ltd.,
director of Republicans Abroad Taiwan,
senior vice president of the World Trade
Center Warsaw, representative of the
Polish Chamber of Commerce, and honorary
citizen of Nebraska and Montana. Einhorn
also calls himself "the father of
relations between Taiwan and six
governments: Poland, Lithuania, Latvia,
Estonia, Hungary and the Bahamas."
Einhorn, who says he has worked in every
Arab country, first came to Taiwan as
head of a Kuwaiti business delegation in
1975.
"Einhorn
is the glue that holds the Jewish
community together," says William Ting,
38, a Taiwan-born corporate lawyer who
grew up in Pasadena, Calif., and
converted to Judaism a year ago under
Einhorn's supervision. "I met him at the
European Chamber of Commerce four years
ago, but I never discovered the rabbi
side of him until a year later."
Aside
from Einhorn's Shabbat services, Jewish
ife in Taiwan is virtually nonexistent.
However, the island has a Holocaust
museum at a church in Tainan, about 90
minutes south of Taipei via train, and
there's a Jewish exhibit that Einhorn
organized at the Buddhist-run Museum of
World Religions in suburban Taipei.
The
only kosher food in this land of pork
dumplings and fried oxtails is at
Jason’s Supermarket in the trendy food
court of Taipei 101, the world's tallest
building, and at the Landis Hotel, whose
chefs are familiar with the laws of
kashrut.
Despite the dwindling numbers, Ting says
he sees a bright future for Jewish life
in Taiwan if the current government
drops its insistence on independence and
seeks closer economic cooperation with
China.
That’s unlikely to happen anytime soon.
In September, President Chen Shui-Ban
petitioned the United Nations for
membership; the bid failed.
Taiwan has been trying to reclaim its
U.N. seat since 1971, when its
membership was replaced by that of the
People's Republic of China. China’s
strong business partnerships around the
world bode ill for Taiwan’s efforts for
official recognition as a state.
Like
Taiwan’s other business partners, Israel
adheres to the one-China policy. The
Jewish state established diplomatic ties
with Beijing in 1994, the same year it
opened an Israel Economic and Cultural
Office in Taipei. Bilateral trade
between Israel and Taiwan reached $1.3
billion in 2006, compared with $1.8
billion between Israel and China,
according to the office’s director,
Raphael Gamzou.
"Taiwan is one of our main trading
partners in Asia," Gamzou told JTA. "The
Taiwanese have a great deal of sympathy
and admiration for Israel. They admire
Israeli courage and resilience, and the
innovative capabilities of Israeli
high-tech companies."
The
few local Jews here hope that increasing
trade with Israel, combined with
successful negotiations to open direct
air service between Taiwan and mainland
China, could save Taiwan’s Jewish
community from outright extinction.
“Direct air links would do wonders for
the Jewish community," Ting says. “You
could fly from Taipei's downtown city
airport to Shanghai in 40 minutes. This
will attract a lot of skilled Jewish
professionals who are sick and tired of
the pollution and smog in other big
Asian cities."